Our panel’s second report: Chardonnay

In March, the tasting panel of centralcoastwinepress.com met for the second time, and sampled six chardonnays in a blind tasting.

Since nearly four months have passed since I posted about our debut tasting (malbec, viewable at centralcoastwinepress.com, Feb. 8, 2012), the panel, again, includes Michelle Lee and Jeremy Ball, Bottle Branding; Katie Baillargeon and Marcel Rivera-Baillargeon, professor, UCSB creative writing program, and online marketing specialist, respectively; Mark Cargasacchi, winemaker/owner, Jalama Wines and Joseph Blair Wines; Laura Sanchez, wine journalist for several local and national publications; and myself.

On March 24, we gathered around a table laden with cheeses, crackers and other edibles designed to enhance the traditional flavors of chardonnay — green apple, pear, honeydew, citrus, vanilla, honey and oak.

Chardonnay is considered by experts to be one of the more difficult wines to pair with food, in part because of the length of time it traditionally ages in — and is seasoned by — oak.

Chardonnays produced with little or no oak are more crisp and frankly, more balanced and elegant. Just my opinion.

The hosts shared only that wines number one and two were from the same region, and that two others were different vintages from the same producer.

Our comments:

Wine One: “Oak; petrol; some butter; really nice balance between acidity and butter/fat; elegant; excellent finish; and racy.” After a repeat taste, one panelist found a hint of sulphur and “earthiness.”

Wine Two: “Stainless; lovely ride; spice; light; elegant; lovely finish; and flows nicely with food.” One of the hosts noted that both wines one and two “were not meant to be consumed for many years,” which turned out to be a salient point.

Wine Three: “Yellow; more butter; full mouthfeel; lemon chiffon but no butter; dessert-like; and Cougar Juice.” Used in the context of our group, that descriptor is negative; however, I must emphasize that a majority of consumers prefer “Cougar Juice”-style chardonnays. (Translation: Full, voluptuous, buttery).

Wine Four: “Less butter; more structure; elegant; more stainless than oak, or a half-and-half split; and more butter on nose.”

Before we got to wine number five, our hosts divulged the identity of the final two, which, under the circumstances, was fine.

Wine Five: While described as “lighter and elegant,” this wine, a 2010 Longoria Wines Cuvee Diana, got overshadowed by Wine Six, which the hosts unveiled as a 1995 Longoria Wines Sta. Rita Hills (Santa Ynez Valley at the time, since it pre-dates the Sta. Rita Hills’ AVA).

The hosts had received the bottle as a gift from winemaker Rick Longoria.

While the 1995 chardonnay displayed light caramel in color, the panel agreed that “time was in its favor, and the palate bright.” One taster described the 17-year-old wine as “Betty White in a glass when she was on “Golden Girls” … she just keeps giving.”

Identities for remaining four chardonnays:

One: 2008 Melville Winery Clone 76, stainless steel

Two: 2009 Clos Pepe Estate, stainless steel, and the most popular among the panelists

Three: 2010 Riverbench

Four: 2009 Talley Vineyard Estate

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June’s Chardonnay Symposium celebrates America’s top white with panel, tastings

The Chardonnay Symposium returns to the Santa Maria Valley Friday, June 29, through Sunday, July 1, with events ranging from a barbecue at Sierra Madre Vineyard and a winemaker seminar moderated by Wine Enthusiast Editor Steve Heimoff to an outdoor concert Sunday.

The weekend is sponsored by the Santa Maria Valley Wine Country Association, the organization behind the promotion of the region’s wineries, vineyards, hotels and other tourist-related businesses.

The annual symposium remains the only event of its kind dedicated to chardonnay, Slaughter said.

During the Friday night barbecue and BYOChardonnay at Sierra Madre Vineyard and Saturday’s day-long events at Byron Vineyard and Winery, the more than 60 participating winemakers will strive to educate participants about the varied styles of chardonnay and the climate and soil conditions under which the Burgundian grape varietal thrives.

Its cooling marine influences make the Santa Maria Valley AVA a top region for growing chardonnay, Slaughter said.

The eight chardonnay producers scheduled to participate in Saturday morning’s panel include the 2011 Wine Enthusiast Winemaker of the Year, Bob Cabral of Williams Selyem; Jenne Lee Bonaccorsi, Bonaccorsi Wine Company; returning 2011 panelist Dieter Cronje, Presqu’ile Wines; James Hall, Patz & Hall; Eric Johnson, Talley Vineyards; Heidi von deer Mehden, Arrowood Vineyards & Winery; Bill Wathan, Foxen Winery; and Graham Weerts of Stonestreet Wines.

The local chefs who will demonstrate their talents and provide samples for tasting include Budi Kazali of The Ballard Inn; Alfonso Curti of Trattoria Uliveto; and Ryan Gromfin, consulting chef for the Santa Maria Inn, Slaughter said.

Friday’s BYOC (Bring Your Own Chardonnay) Barbecue at Sierra Madre Vineyard includes a gourmet Santa Maria-style barbecue, music and dancing. Cost: $30 per person.

Among the other symposium events are a Kenneth Volk winemaker dinner Saturday evening, a sparkling chardonnay Sunday brunch at Cottonwood Canyon Winery and a “Pops in the Vineyard” concert Sunday afternoon at Tres Hermanas Vineyard.

Details: http://www.thechardonnaysymposium.com, or http://www.smvwines.com. Media sponsor of the June event: Wine Enthusiast. Transportation: Included in the $95 cost of Saturday’s Heimoff seminar and the Grand Tasting is shuttle transportation from the Santa Maria Radisson Hotel to Byron Vineyard and Winery; parking on-site at Byron will be $20 per vehicle, organizers say. All events Friday through Sunday are listed on the Chardonnay Symposium website.

Calendar of events for May and June

Friday, May 18

Gainey Vineyard, Santa Ynez — Spring Farmers’ Market, a benefit for the Santa Ynez Valley Youth Queen Contest. Market features local producers, among them Finley Family Farms, Olive Hill Farms, Marcie’s Pies, Santa Ynez Gardens, Morrel Farms, San Marcos Farms, Jimenez Family Farms and Enjoy Cupcakes. The Solvang Trolley will offer hayrides through the Gainey vineyards, and Santa Ynez Valley Youth group will provide a tri-tip barbecue. Live music. Time: 4:30 to 7 p.m. Cost: Free. Gainey Vineyard is located at 3950 Highway 246. http://www.gaineyvineyard.com
              
Ongoing

Gather Wine Bar, Arroyo Grande — Live music Friday and Saturday evenings; wines by the glass and full menu. Winemaker Wednesdays offer three tastes, discounts on wines by the bottle and a chance to meet the winemaker, all for $10. Gather Wine Bar is located at 122 E. Branch St., Arroyo Grande. Hours: 1 to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 2 to 11 p.m. Friday, 1 to 11 p.m. Saturday, and 2 to 8 p.m. Sunday. View all events at http://www.eventbrite.com/org/462843382. (805) 474-4771; http://www.gatherwinebar.com; info@gatherwinebar.com

Taste in the Vineyard, Santa Barbara County — Spend a morning or afternoon in the tranquility of Santa Ynez Valley vineyards with exclusive access during a walking tour, led by Lee Tomkow. Learn how vines are managed and how wine is produced from a guide who will detail clonal differences, rootstocks and how to identify varietals, among them syrah, sangiovese and grenache. Tour times: 9 a.m. to noon, or 1 to 4 p.m. daily except Saturday. Reservations required; each tour limited to 10 people. Cost: $50 per person. Information and reservations: 693-4424, or http://www.vineyardwalkingtours.com.

— Calendar: winecountrywriter@gmail.com
Copyright http://www.centralcoastwinepress.com

Refugio Ranch: Western lore meets homegrown Santa Ynez Valley quality

Refugio Ranch photo/The Alban 174 syrah clone is planted on a hillside at Refugio Ranch.

A vineyard nestled in a cooler pocket of the southern Santa Ynez Valley is producing some of the region’s newest wines crafted in the spirit of cowboys and ranch lore.

Refugio Ranch Vineyard, owned by the Gleason family, is a 415-acre property, with approximately 25 acres planted to sauvignon blanc, malvasia bianca, roussanne, sémillon, viognier, grenache and syrah, said proprietor Kevin Gleason.

Gleason’s adult son, Max, an artist based in New York City, designed the art that adorns Refugio Ranch’s label, and supervises the brand’s aesthetics; winemaker Ryan Deovlet of San Luis Obispo’s Deovlet Wines produces the label; and Reuben Salazar of Coastal Vineyard Care manages the sections of vineyards that line the estate’s hillsides and valleys.

The bucolic property itself, a former cattle ranch, is the heart and soul of the Refugio Ranch label. Max Gleason’s artwork is both “rustic and contemporary,” said his father, Kevin.

As the senior Gleason explained, the family listens closely to the “history of the ranch, to the vineyard, the land — and we try not to screw it up too much. We have the same approach to winemaking.”

With crop cultivation, “sometimes it’s a matter of sitting back and listening to the property,” Deovlet noted.

Kevin Gleason concurs: “This team (Gleasons and Deovlet) is comfortable with the unknown. Rather than ‘driving’ the process — driving and looking for an intended outcome — we are content to sit back and watch nature.”

Deovlet told a visitor he feels “like an adopted member” of the Gleason family; indeed, he, father and son Gleason finish one another’s sentences, and appear comfortable as a unit.

During a May 16 industry open house at Refugio Ranch’s newly opened tasting room in Los Olivos, Deovlet joined Max, Kevin and his wife, Niki, and the tasting room staff in pouring wines from behind the spacious bar.

Refugio Ranch Vineyard premiered with the 2008 Barbareno (a blend of petite sirah and syrah), and the 2009 Sauvignon Blanc, Deovlet said.

The barbareno’s components are 63 syrah and 37 petite sirah, with about 4 to 6 percent viognier and 2 to 3 percent malvasia bianca, he explained.

The 2009 sauvingnon blanc was aged in oak, and the 2010 in stainless steel, Deovlet said. Tasted side by side, each vintage commands attention, with the 2009 showing
roundness and elegant balance, and the 2010 more mineral driven and crisp on the palate.

The 2011 vintage is “a blend of the two previous styles,” and contains a percentage of sémillion, a Bordeaux varietal that’s a mainstay in white blends as well as being the key grape in Sauternes. The 2011 will be bottled later this summer, Deovlet said.

The label’s second white varietal blends two key Rhone whites, roussanne and viognier. The 2009 vintage was a 55-45 split of roussane and viognier, and the 2010 a 60-40 mix. The 2009 utilized no oak, and 2010 just 15 percent new French oak barrels, Deovlet said.

“The roussanne soaks up the oak of the barrel when the wine is on the lees for an extended period. The final product shows salinity, and is rich, round and supple.”

Deovlet describes his palate as “Old World,” one that favors “pristine aromatics” and the characteristics of “wet stone.” He favors concrete for fermentation, and calls the utilization of such containers his goal for Refugio Ranch.

The Gleasons and Deovlet emphasize that the property’s soil structure “drives the viticulture” practiced at Refugio Ranch. “The soils are heavier with clay, and we need cover crops to take up the water to create a competition with the vines,” a process that creates more intense fruit as the vines “fight” for water, Deovlet noted.

He reiterated that the property is a cool one, with about “5 degrees difference in temperature a factor that pushes us into “the red zone” as far as ripening (in a timely fashion), meaning most of the site’s vines ripen later than the average for the region.

The vineyard portions of the entire estate are tucked up against the hillsides on dark, rich clay soil that resembles fudge dusted with cocoa powder. The top soil layer is shallow with rock just about three feet below the surface, Max Gleason noted during a tour of the property.

Theirs is the sole vineyard on the south side of the Santa Ynez River, a fact that brings “distinctiveness to the soils and the wines,” Kevin Gleason said.

In their search for flavor intensity, viticulturists such as Salazar target a lean per-acre crop, and Deovlet and the Gleasons are no exception: “We’re seeking lower yields (to the point of) making several passes through the vineyard when picking. We pick, wait, and then pick again,” Deovlet said.

Having a preference for the eclectic, creative side of viticulture means that Regufio Ranch team is “comfortable with the unknown,” Kevin Gleason emphasized.

Mara and Callie, the youngest children of Kevin Gleason and his wife, Niki, provided Max with further inspiration for the Refugio Ranch wine label.

The eldest of the daughters, Mara, is the silhouetted “Tiradora,” or sharpshooter, on the wine of the same name, the sauvignon blanc. Together, silhouettes of Niki, Mara and Callie walking are the label on “Ineseno,” the 60-40 blend of roussane and viognier.

The goal for case production of the 2011 vintage is between 2,500 and 3,000, Kevin Gleason said.

His family, said Kevin Gleason, searched for a site such as this “for years” before settling down. After viewing and rejecting many other potential vineyard sites, eventually, “the property found us.”

Details: Refugio Ranch Vineyard’s new tasting room is located at 2990 Grand Ave., Los Olivos, in part of the building that faces Highway 154. The current releases are the 2010 Tiradora, the 2010 Ineseno and the 2009 Barbareno, a 65-35 percent blend of syrah and petite sirah. Initial hours: 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Friday through Sunday. Information: http://www.refugioranch.com, info@refugioranch.com, (805) 686-0840.

Buellton’s inaugural Brew Fest a sell-out hit

The first Buellton Brew Fest, which launched the Santa Ynez Valley’s “Craft Beer Week” on Saturday, May 12, at River Park, was a sell-out hit, organizers said.

The one-day Brew Fest sold 1,000 tickets, said Holly Todd, director of the Buellton Beer Fest, who described the festival as one that “not only showcased some of the best craft brews in the state, but the amazing beers provided locally. We are already looking forward to May 2013,” next year’s event, she said.

The Buellton Beer Fest included 22 breweries, among them local brewers Figueroa Mountain, Firestone, Solvang Brewing and Tap It. Others from the region, and California, were San Diego’s Stone Brewing Company, Mendocino Brewing Company, Blue Moon, Island Brewing Company, Sam Adams and many more.

Buellton-based Avant Tapas & Wine Bar provided lunch to all attendees, while the Chef’s Touch of Solvang provided free samples of its beer chili, and Doc Bernstein’s was on hand with a Guinness ice cream, Todd noted.

For more details, as well as photos from the recent festival, visit http://www.buelltonbrewfest.com

 

John Falcone new general manager, director of winemaking at Gainey Vineyard

John Falcone is Gainey Vineyard's new general manager and director of winemaking.

John Falcone, formerly of Rusack Vineyards, has been named the new director of winemaking and general manager at Gainey Vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley.

Gainey is a family-owned estate winery and ranching operation that has been a Santa Barbara County name for nearly 30 years. Gainey produces pinot noir and chardonnay from the Sta. Rita Hills and Bordeaux varietals from its estate vineyards.

The family also produces organically grown vegetables, fruits and flowers that are sold at local farmers markets and grocery stores, as well as cattle and hay for various California ranches.

Falcone began his Santa Barbara County winemaking career nearly a decade ago after a 13-year winemaking stint in the Napa Valley. Falcone says he will remain focused on “making wine in the vineyard,” where, he says, “the core of winemaking actually takes place.”
With his wife, Helen, Falcone produces his own label, Falcone Family Vineyards, with fruit grown on the family property in the Templeton Gap area of Paso Robles.

Falcone said he respects how “seriously (owner and famer) Dan Gainey and his crew take their farming and winegrowing. It’s funny: America is the only country that refers to winemakers as, well, winemakers. Everywhere else in the world, you’re a vine grower, a vigneron, if you will. Dan and his team understand the crucial dynamics in the vineyard that lead to what’s in the bottle. When I understood his level of commitment, I knew I wanted to work with him.”
 

Photos by Jeremy Ball, Bottle Branding/Dan Gainey, left, and John Falcone in one of Gainey's vineyards.


While Falcone will supervise all winery operations at Gainey, winemaker Jeff LeBard will continue to manage all winemaking activities and will be assisted in the Bordeaux varieties by consultant Jon Engleskirger.